Spring De-Winterizing Guide

As spring arrives and boating season comes back into view, it’s time to pull the covers, rinse off the grime, and get your boat ready for the water. To help you start the season with confidence, we’ve put together a practical de-winterizing guide with key maintenance steps, recommended tools, and helpful reminders to keep your boat ship shape.

Exterior

Gelcoat

Gelcoat should shine but over time, it's often in need of a little elbow grease. Spring cleaning removes winter-gunk buildup before it compounds.

Marine-safe soaps

• Starbrite Boat Wash — Biodegradable, cleans without stripping wax. Good starting point for a general de-winterizing wash.
• Saltaway — Fast rinse for salt removal (use after every trip). Won't strip wax, but follow with a freshwater rinse to clear all residue.

Solvents for tougher marks

Reapply wax after using any solvent. Test on a hidden area first — stronger solvents can damage striping, rubber trim, and bottom paint.

• Denatured Alcohol — Milder option for marks and light staining.
• Mary Kate On & Off — High-strength, acidic. Use on the toughest stains only. Rinse thoroughly with freshwater immediately after.

Tools

• Starbrite Deck Brushes (soft for gelcoat, medium for general surfaces, firm for non-skid)
• Magic Erasers — effective for stubborn scuffs, but will strip wax and scratch glossy plastic.
• Microfiber cloths and squeegee
• Zero-G 75' hose

Canvas & Upholstery

Canvas and vinyl require different products but the same principle: clean thoroughly, dry completely, protect before storage.

Canvas

1. Wash with marine-safe soap and rinse thoroughly with fresh water.
2. Scrub gently with a soft-bristle brush to remove salt, algae, and dirt.
3. Dry completely before storing or applying treatments.
4. Apply a water-repellent sealer (e.g., 3M Scotchgard) to extend life and resist mildew.

Vinyl Upholstery

1. Clean with 3M Marine Vinyl Cleaner and a soft cotton or microfiber cloth.
2. Work in small sections to avoid streaking.
3. Condition vinyl to prevent UV cracking and fading.
4. For storage: remove cushions and covers if possible, or protect with canvas covers.

Metal Hardware

Stainless steel and aluminum both require care to look their best when battling in the arena of saltwater. Be sure to rinse hardware with fresh water after every trip. When you do see light corrosion on hardware or deck surfaces, that is often easily remedied with the proper compound.

Preventive maintenance

• Rinse all metal hardware with fresh water after every outing, especially after saltwater exposure.
• Use Salt Away or a similar marine rinse to dissolve salt residue before it bonds.
• Dry with a chamois or squeegee immediately after rinsing to prevent water spots.
• Seal with a light coat of marine wax.
• Consider a spotless rinse filter system (e.g., CR Spotless) for a cleaner finish with less effort.

Removing stains and restoring shine

You'll need:

• Cordless polisher (Milwaukee M12 or equivalent)
• Microfiber or cotton buffing cloths
• Starbrite Chrome & Stainless Polish (light staining)
• Mary Kate On & Off (heavy staining and oxidation)
• Work gloves

Steps:

1. Put on gloves and rinse the stained area with fresh water.
2. Dip a soft brush into your chosen polish and apply directly to the stain.
3. Rinse immediately — do not let polish dry on the metal.
4. Repeat if staining persists.
5. Once clean, dry thoroughly and apply a protective sealant (marine wax or corrosion inhibitor).

Glass

After every cruise: Rinse salt spray from windows as soon as possible using a soft cloth or microfiber. This prevents salt etching and mineral deposits.

Tinted windows: Use an ammonia-free glass cleaner — standard Windex can damage tinting.

Non-tinted windows: A clay bar or isopropyl alcohol removes water spots and oxidation.

Before spring cruising: Apply a water-repellent treatment (Rain-X or Aquapel) to windshields. These create a protective barrier against salt spray and simplify future cleaning.

Wood

The finish type determines your maintenance approach.

Oil-finished wood (teak and other oiled surfaces)

Routine maintenance: clean with a soft cloth and Dalys Seafin Teak Oil after every wash during heavy-use seasons.

To refinish:

You'll need:

• Dalys Seafin Teak Oil
• West Marine 1-Step Teak Cleaner and Brightener
• Nitrile gloves
• Quality scrub brush
• Metal container for oil-soaked rag disposal

Steps:

1. Put on gloves.
2. Wash and rinse the area thoroughly to clear salt, dirt, and debris.
3. Apply Teak Cleaner and Brightener directly to the wood surface.
4. Scrub lightly with the grain for about 15 seconds.
5. Let the cleaner sit for two minutes.
6. Rinse thoroughly.
7. Allow wood to air dry completely.
8. Apply Teak Oil using a cotton rag in thin, even coats.

⚠️ Teak oil-soaked rags are flammable. Dispose of them by soaking in a water-filled, sealed metal container for at least one hour before discarding.

Urethane-finished wood (varnished surfaces)

Routine maintenance: clean with Murphy's Oil Soap or Pledge. Wipe dry to prevent water marks. Inspect for scratches or peeling before refinishing.

To refinish:

You'll need:

• Nitrile gloves and respirator
• Sanding block with 1,000-grit sandpaper
• Denatured alcohol
• Masking tape and plastic sheeting
• Helmsman Spar Urethane (Clear Satin rattle can)
• Cotton rags

Steps:

1. Wear gloves and a respirator.
2. Tape off 1 foot around the damaged area.
3. Sand with 1,000-grit paper — don't sand all the way to the tape line.
4. Clean the sanded area with denatured alcohol.
5. Mask off surrounding areas with plastic drop cloths to prevent overspray.
6. Shake the spray can per manufacturer instructions.
7. Apply a light, even first coat; stop short of the tape line.
8. Let dry to tack (10–15 minutes — sticky but not wet).
9. Apply a second even coat.
10. Let dry overnight before removing tape.
11. Wait 24–48 hours before normal use.

Mechanical Systems

Bilge Pump

Note: The bilge pump fuse is wired directly to the batteries. Even with all house switches off, the pump will still run. Remove the fuse before servicing (but don't forget to put it back when you're done).

Cleaning and inspection

1. Remove the bilge pump fuse.
2. Unscrew the hose and press the buttons on either side to lift and remove the pump.
3. Inspect the bottom of the pump and basket for debris. Clean if necessary.
4. Reinsert the bilge pump into the base until secure and reattach the hose.
5. Reinstall the fuse when complete.

Verifying automatic operation

Listen for a one-second burst every two and a half minutes. To manually test, press the manual bilge pump switch on the panel.

The manual test confirms the pump is functional but does not verify the automatic burst cycle. Leave this switch off after testing.

Seawater Supply

1. Locate and inspect seawater through-hull fittings for corrosion or damage.
2. Check all seawater hoses for cracks, splits, or loose clamps. Replace any questionable hose.
3. (In-water test or with water supply) Run the engine briefly to verify seawater flow to the raw water cooling intake.
4. (In-water test or with water supply) Test the galley seawater pump and head seawater rinse for smooth operation.
5. Inspect strainers and intake baskets. Clean out any debris accumulated over winter.

Stuffing Box — Inboard Boats Only

The stuffing box prevents significant water flow around the propeller shaft. The target drip rate is one drip every 15–20 seconds with the engine running at idle.

Before starting: to monitor drip rate with the shaft spinning, have a captain pilot the boat, have a lookout on hand, or secure the boat to a dock. Recommended tool: two Rigid E110 offset hex wrenches.

1. With one wrench, hold the stuffing box in place and loosen the locking nut by turning clockwise while facing aft.
2. With the locking nut loosened, adjust the stuffing box with the second wrench:
   • To tighten: Turn clockwise while facing aft until the desired drip rate is achieved.
   • To loosen: Turn counterclockwise until the desired drip rate is achieved.
3. Hold the stuffing box in place and tighten the locking nut by turning it counterclockwise while facing aft.

If the proper drip rate cannot be achieved, the packing material in the stuffing box will need to be replaced.

Fuel System

Replace both primary and secondary filters according to your engine manual. Before starting maintenence, ensure all engine display and battery switches are off.

Fuel stabilizers

Always follow the manufacturer's instructions when adding stabilizers.

• Diesel engines: Stanadyne Diesel Fuel Additive Performance Formula
• Gasoline engines: Yamalube Fuel Stabilizer and Conditioner. Use ethanol-free gasoline when possible. If ethanol fuel is unavoidable, an additive helps prevent related issues.

Inboard Fuel Filters

Primary Filter (Engine Bay)

1. Place a container under the filter housing to catch fuel.
2. Drain the housing by unscrewing the drain plug (bottom center).
3. Turn the T-handle counterclockwise to unscrew the filter housing cap.
4. Lift out the old filter cartridge.
5. Install the new cartridge with fresh O-rings.
6. Reinstall the housing cap.

Secondary Filter (Engine Bay)

1. Disconnect the water-in-fuel sensor connector.
2. Unscrew and remove the secondary filter.
3. Drain all fuel into a proper container.
4. Remove the water-in-fuel sensor from the old filter (preserve the gasket).
5. Install the sensor and gasket on the new filter — snug but not over-tight.
6. Thread the new filter back onto the engine.
7. Reconnect the water-in-fuel sensor connector.

Priming Inboard Filters

1. Loosen the bleeder nipple.
2. Place a container below to catch excess fuel.
3. Pump the black bleeder knob on top of the filter housing.
4. When fuel flows consistently from the nipple, tighten it.
5. Continue pumping until the system is fully pressurized.

Outboard Fuel Filters

Primary filters should typically be replaced every 50 operating hours; secondary filters every 100 hours (consult your engine manual).

Primary Filter (Center Hatch)

1. Use a fuel filter wrench to unscrew the primary filter.
2. Drain fuel into a clean container.
3. Screw on the new filter hand-tight.
4. Prime the system using the side-mounted fuel bulb.

Secondary Filter (Engine)

1. Unscrew the two top bolts to remove the filter housing.
2. Unclip the sensor connector.
3. Use a specialty filter wrench to remove the cartridge — this protects the housing from damage.
4. Drain fuel into an appropriate container.
5. Install the new filter cartridge.
6. Reconnect the fuel sensor connector.
7. Reinstall the housing and both top bolts.

Electrical & Power

Checking fuses

• Use a multimeter on the continuity setting to test each fuse.
• Visually inspect for breaks or burn marks.
• Replace any damaged fuse with the correct amperage rating.

After replacing fuses, verify that bilge pump fuse(s) are properly installed and secure.

Tightening battery connections

1. Turn off all battery switches.
2. Check each battery terminal and bus bar for tightness — snug but not over-tight.
3. Verify that positive and negative terminals are isolated from each other.

Pay particular attention to the main house and engine battery banks.

Cleaning battery connections

White or blue corrosion increases resistance and reduces charging efficiency.

1. Turn off all battery switches.
2. Inspect terminals and bus bars for corrosion buildup.
3. Spray with battery terminal cleaning solution and scrub with a brass-bristle brush.
4. Apply a corrosion inhibitor designed for marine battery terminals.

Diesel Heater Filter — If equipped

1. Remove the 4 Phillips screws on the black heater box.
2. Inspect the fuel filter. If it's full of sediment or fluid, replacement is due. Replace annually regardless of appearance.
3. Using a Phillips screwdriver, remove the two hose clamps on either side of the filter.
4. Disconnect the hoses and install the new filter, ensuring it faces the same direction as the original.

Water & Sanitation Systems

Potable Water System

1. Flush all lines thoroughly to clear stagnant water or sediment.
2. Inspect hose connections for cracks, leaks, or deterioration.
3. Test all faucets and showers to confirm proper flow and pressure.
4. If the system was winterized with antifreeze, run fresh water through all lines until the antifreeze taste and smell are completely gone.
5. Check the freshwater tank for debris or discoloration and clean if needed.

Holding Tank

Emptying

1. Confirm the Y-valve position is set correctly — whichever two arrows are showing indicates the direction flow is going.
2. Open the waste tank cap. The cap is loose and has no lanyard — place it somewhere you won't lose it.
3. Turn on the dockside pump-out machine per its instructions.
4. Prime the hose by inserting the tip in water and opening the ball valve. Close the ball valve, fully insert the hose into the tank to create a vacuum, then reopen the ball valve.
5. Reattach the waste tank cap when finished.

Flushing and cleaning

Flush and rinse the holding tank each time you pump out to prevent buildup and odors.

Important: Do not use the freshwater hose for the holding tank, and never use a hose that contacts potable water for this purpose.

1. Confirm the Y-valve is in the correct position and fill the tank about halfway to two-thirds with fresh water.
2. Repeat the pump-out procedure above. Reattach the waste tank cap when finished.
3. To apply tank cleaning treatment, pour the recommended amount directly into the head and flush several times.

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